This fall, get lost in the Loess Hills
Loess Bluffs National Wildlife Area, north of St. Joseph, Mo.
Thousands of years of wind-blown silt have resulted in a range of hills several hundred miles long.
By Roy Harryman
Publisher
Can you feel it? It’s the crispness of fall air invading summer’s heat. Although summer is rallying for a few days as temperatures near 90 F, you can still plan a fall trip now. Then, when the time is right, make a break for it.
This is the second in a series on fall day trips for Kansas Citians (see Central Missouri here). Today’s destination: The Loess Hills of northwest Missouri, Kansas, Iowa and Nebraska.
What are the Loess Hills?
Loess (rhymes with bus) is a German word meaning wind-blown sediment. The Loess Hills are a belt that extends from north of St. Joseph, Mo., through Iowa to South Dakota. There is also a narrow belt in northeast Kansas extending into Nebraska.
Before European settlement, these hills were predominantly treeless. Fire suppression, however, has allowed trees to thrive in much of the area. As a result, this region is rich in fall colors shimmering across valleys and rolling terrain.
What makes these hills unusual is that they shoot straight up from flat river bottomland and rise up to 300 feet from the valley floor. Hiking directly up one of these ridges is sometimes impossible. Natural terracing and erosion also give them a wrinkled appearance.
This region is a less-traveled, unique slice of Americana, with barns and farmsteads located beneath massive forested hills following the Missouri River.
There are numerous destinations in the Loess Hills region, so we’ll begin with the locations closest to Kansas City and throw in a few extras for good measure.
Loess Bluffs National Wildlife Refuge
Loess Bluffs National Wildlife Refuge (formerly known as Squaw Creek), is well known as a destination to view migrating birds. But many people somehow miss the trails exploring the lofty bluffs behind the visitors’ center. About four miles of natural surface trails take hikers to the summit and ridgeline, providing distant views of the area.
Star School Hill Prairie Conservation Area
Consider this destination off the beaten path. Star School Hill Prairie Conservation, near the Iowa border, provides sweeping views of three states and the Missouri River Valley. Trails exist but are rustic. However, it’s easy to find your way around this relatively small area. Heads up: This hike has a seriously steep grade. It’s worth the trip to the top, but you’ll feel the burn.
Waubonsie State Park, Iowa
A few miles across the Missouri border, Iowa’s Waubonsie State Park provides spectacular views of the Missouri River Valley. It also provides challenging natural surface trails.
Indian Cave State Park, Nebraska
Indian Cave State Park is one of the premiere hiking destinations in the Midwest. More than 20 miles of trails, including primitive campsites, await hikers. Trails are challenging, but views are rewarding. Along with traveling ridgetops, hikers at Indian Cave can “bottom out” and relax right next to the Missouri River.
Runners Up
These areas are not runners up because they lack scenic and natural appeal. In fact, these Iowa hikes are spectacular. They will simply require you to spend more time in the car. If you have time, these Loess Hills destination are worth a visit.
Four State Lookout, White Cloud, Kansas
Finally, to be a completist, we’ll include the Four State Lookout in White Cloud, Kansas. Although northeast Kansas is a unique geographic region with massive river bluffs, there is almost no public property to allow exploration. However, you can still get a bird’s eye view from the lookout in this somewhat desolate village. The gravel road to the top is extremely rough. Don’t attempt it in muddy or icy weather. Walking may be a better option unless you have an appropriate vehicle. From the top, there is a modest viewing area that allows you see Iowa, Missouri, Nebraska (and of course Kansas) on a clear day. It demonstrates that Kansas is part of the Loess Hills region, even though there are few hiking opportunities in this part of the state.