Leaving snow prints in the Flint Hills: The paradoxes of winter hiking

Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, near Council Grove, Kansas

By Roy Harryman
Publisher

Winter hiking is paradoxical.

It’s cold … yet invigorating. The landscape is mostly brown, yet it reveals horizons usually blocked by green foliage. When snow is on the ground, contrasts are vivid: a fox, herd of bison and numerous birds leap to the forefront of my vision.

Sounds are also magnified. A distant chirp sounds as if a bird is standing on your shoulder. Along with the quiet, it’s also noisy. If snow is underfoot, there’s a perpetual “crunch, crunch, crunch” and an occasional splash if the snow gives way to slush.

All of these phenomena were apparent as I hiked the Flint Hills Trail at Council Grove and at Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve late last week.

The snow brought vivid contrast to a cardinal on the Flint Hills Trail near Council Grove, Kansas.

A “warm” winter’s day hike
When I read that temperatures were predicted to hit 50F, I made plans for an excursion, wanting to get some miles in before arctic weather took over.

I planned to start with the Flint Hills Trail, jumping on at the Bushong, Kansas, trailhead. But Bushong – a thriving town of 25 – had scarcely cleared the snow. I knew if I parked there, I’d have to be removed by tow truck. So, plan B meant heading 20 minutes west to the trailhead at Council Grove. From there, I’d walk east.

I don’t know what I would have experienced in Bushong (but I’ll be back). But the trail from Council Grove east was serene. As you can imagine, I saw no one. I was concerned the unplowed trail might be unhikeable, but a park service vehicle had driven over it and created some ruts which came in handy. On my two-hour trip, I glanced a fox, numerous birds foraging in the snow and crossed multiple rust iron bridges. Just me and the world.

One of numerous bridges on the Flint Hills Trail east of Council Grove, Kansas.

Wanting to make the most of the day, I then headed south to Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, only 20 minutes away near Cottonwood Falls. Surprisingly, I was immediately met by two other hikers who had crunched and sloshed through the hills before me. They gave me details on where to see a herd of bison.

Bison roam freely at Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, near Council Grove, Kansas.

A school opened in 1889 is preserved at Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve.

After negotiating my way up a steep hill, the bison came in sight. I kept my distance, but was able to snap some decent pictures with my zoom lens. From there, I headed downhill … very carefully. Slipping and stepping along, I completed a long loop that led me to an 1889 stone schoolhouse, then finished at the historic ranch home that is central to the park.

My shoes were completely soaked, as were my socks. I had to peel it all off and drive home barefoot.

Was it worth it? Absolutely.